Tallinn City Breaks

Eating

Eating out in Tallinn - cheap, expensive and everything in between

Tallinn is full of great restaurants serving hearty European fare, which is good because you'll build an appetite as you roam the streets of the Old Town. Happily, there are plenty of budget choices, some great mid-priced choices and you can certainly splurge if you wish.

The budget options - casual dining is a fun experience in Tallinn. Kompressor on Rataskaevu tänav 3 Old Town, is a big, friendly hall and eating one of their pancakes stuffed with everything, will keep you going all day or all night. It's a student style eatery serving up hearty, simple, delicious food at a decent price. Burritos in Tallinn? Yep, get on down at the Tex-Mex Texas Honky Tonk at Pikk tänav 43 Old Town.

Mid-price options - Vanaema Juures is on Rataskaevu tänav 10/12 Lower Town and is a stylish restaurant at a reasonable price. This is old-style Estonian grand. Antique feel and old-fashioned service with a raft of traditional menu choices. The selections may seem a little 'meaty' but vegetarians are well-catered for. What else would you expect at 'Grandma's Place'? (Vanaema Juures in Estonian.) If you're staying close to New Town, try Eesti Maja, on Lauteri tänav 1 New Town. The traditional Estonian food such as blood sausage, marinated eel and so on may not be everyone's taste, but it's certainly authentic.

Splurge - go all out with Olde Hansa. On Vana Turg 1 Old Town, it gets rave reviews, even if it does at first glance look like some sort of tacky themed restaurant. The service is cheerful and fulsome, the food is exotic (think reindeer, wild pig and elk), and the sides are authentic and home-made (think juniper cheese and honey beer). They take their medieval roots very seriously with meals themed around what a middle ages merchant might eat and it's a great experience for anyone looking for something a little different.

Sightseeing

Tallinn- the city that time forgot

Tallinn is really quite different. Some of the more well-known European cities can get a little crowded, especially in spring or summer. Tallinn is as beautiful as many European cities are (the old town is truly delightful), but the key difference is the warm and friendly people. Get behind the soviet taciturnity and they'll go out of their way to assist; directing you here and there. And the food is great...

Old Town - a picture postcard place full of ye olde cobblestone streets and centuries old shops, museums, castles and guildhalls. It's a step back in time and you'll need at least a day, just roaming to your heart's content to truly appreciate this place. The shops vary - cute bookstores, lively cafes, smart bars, upmarket boutiques and quirky gin joints.

The KGB Museum - Tallinn wasn't entirely left alone! In the good old days, the Hotel Viru was one of the few hotels foreigners could stay at. Consequently, the KGB set up shop on the 23rd floor and today you can have a look at how they did their job. Pitifully, as it turns out. Make sure you jump on the English-speaking tour.

Kumu Art Museum - built by Tsar Peter I, this incredible palace is now the official residence of the Estonian president and houses the Estonian collection of European masters plus a range of art from the Soviet era (entitled 'How to do art in the Soviet period'). A good mix of the old and the new and seeing the cold war impact on art is disconcerting.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral - this visually stunning testament to Russian Orthodox taste in cathedrals is your typical onion-domed church. The locals don't like it because of the association with Russian domination. That said it's a gorgeous building and well worth a tour.

The must see - it may be a slightly quirky choice, but the old Tallinn Prison is a spooky walk through the past. You're left to wander through on your own, past the cells with poignant graffiti and pop star posters and through the hospital operating theatre. If you have an appetite for the bizarre, this is your 'must do'!